Should Refrigerator Condenser Fan Run Continuously
- #1
- Model Number
- GSS25WGPDBB
- Brand
- GE
- Age
- More than 10 years
Good Day folks, I am adding a few pictures with the post. So far, fridge and freezer are working as intended and don't see any problems.
I have been cleaning coils at least 1-2 times a year and don't see them super dirty or clogged.
Is this condenser fan in attached pictures and how often it should be running? Compressor is running and making some noise/sound, but fan is not coming. I unplugged the fridge and can freely spin it with my fingers without any problem.
I used some dry lube around bushings and fan area, which improved free spinning but it's still not coming. BTW, while compressor is running I can hear a sound like some water is flowing through a pond or stream, not sure where that sound is coming from? More like when you hear when water is flowing through a sink/shower. I don't see any water around the fridge area though.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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jeff1
Appliance Tech - Moderator
- #2
Hi,
Normally the condenser fan motor should be running when the compressor is running.
Power ( 115 volts AC ) to the motor and it is not running is a bad fan motor.
If needed:
Refrigerator condenser fan motor
jeff.
Jake
Appliance Tech - Admin
- #3
Hi,
Yes, that is your condenser fan motor, it should be running at all times when your compressor is running.
You'll need a multimeter to see if your getting 120 volts to it.
If your getting 120 volts to it and its not turning then its bad.
Here's the condenser fan motor for your model you can order(Install video included):
Condenser Fan Motor WR60X10220
Jake
Jake
Appliance Tech - Admin
- #4
Oops sorry Jeff, we posted 1 minute apart.
Jake
- #5
Thanks to both of you. I do have a multimeter and did watch videos how to replace it.
Is there a way I can test it to ensure motor is shot?
- #6
BTW, that should be replaced ASAP too or can it wait? Thanks
- #7
Think my fridge is about to give up
Condenser fan is not running while compressor is running. So I checked continuity for the wires for fan motor, starting from left as 1-2-3. From 1-2, there's no continuity, then there's value from 1-3 and again no continuity from 2-3.
I checked input to the fan motor and that is also showing exact same behavior. 1-2, there's nothing, then value from 1-3 and nothing from 2-3. Is it an expected behavior?
Don't want to just order fan motor and realize problem is somewhere else
Any suggestions to troubleshoot it? If anyone know a link to service manual, that would be great, thanks so much.
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- #8
Just checked AC voltage between Orange and Black line at the input(1st pict)plug male side and it's reading 0 volts, while fridge was plugged. Does it mean an issue with the control board?
- #9
Ok, so I checked J2 connector pin 3 and 5, I am getting 13.5ish Volts DC in it. Does it mean control board is good and just fan motor needs to be replaced? If so, why at the male side of plug I am getting 0 volts AC?
- #10
Sorry, checked voltage on J2 connector between pin3/5 and pin3/8, it's 13.5ish VDC. I tried to rotate the fan, it tries to rotate in clockwise, but after 1 turn stalls and seems to be binding - not sure if it's just a fan motor issue? Thanks for any input and advice.
Here's an attached pict for control board, one of the connector is just hanging out and not hooked anywhere?
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Jake
Appliance Tech - Admin
- #11
That condenser fan motor is rated at 115 volts, so if you're not getting 115 volts at the connector plug to it, then your motherboard is the problem.
Look on your original condenser fan motor, doesn't it say 115 volts?
Here's the motherboard for your model you can order:
WR55X10942P Control Board
Jake
Jake
Appliance Tech - Admin
- #12
Note: some electronic board models have condenser motors that run off of 115V AC. If yours does you cannot check the motor from the board. The DC motors are fully enclosed and are normally white (ceramic). The 115 V AC motors are metal with exposed copper coils.
Jake
- #13
Thanks very much for your help. In my case, fan is definitely looking like an AC fan, based on your description - please see attached pict.
Do you know what should be the sequence in terms of hooking AC to the fan directly? I am going to remove it from the fridge and see why and where it's binding.
I have a feeling, fan is not supplied 120VAC all the time, so whenever I checked after plugging in the fridge, at that second there was no power since for testing I unplug fridge, remove connector enter leads for voltmeter and then plug back the fridge. Need to wait for few mins, till compressor is going to kick in, then see if it's giving 120VAC, right?
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- #14
Alright, so I removed the fan and tested again. At the input plug, I am getting 120-125VAC, phew!!!
Fan tries to rotate, but then stalls and not sure what's binding or causing it to bind? I removed whole assemble and installed parts again by ensuring nothing is binding.
Multi-meter is at 2000 ohm scale and tested between black and orange, getting a value 080-082 ohm. Is this resistance value acceptable and within range?
Worst, I can just order a fan and see what happens, any advice? Thank you
- #15
Thanks again Jake, actually bearing inside the motor is shot. Hence, it's stalling.
Ordering a new fan motor, will keep you posted. Thank you.
- #16
Will this work around work for a 2-3 days, until I get a new fan motor? Or should I just keep using a box fan?
Jake
Appliance Tech - Admin
- #17
Excellent, good find. Yes the new condenser fan motor will fix it.
I'd just keep using a box fan till you get the new condenser fan motor.
Jake
- #18
Thanks very much Jake, appreciate it. I have switched to a box fan
Jake
Appliance Tech - Admin
- #19
Ok, sounds good.
Let us know how it goes when you get the new condenser fan motor.
Jake
- #20
Installed new fan motor and all is well. Condenser is running cooler and fan is running fine.
Thanks very much Jake.
Source: https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/gss25wgpdbb-how-often-condenser-fan-should-run.63327/
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